Kyle USA Linear Suspension Link for ZX-10R 2011-2012
Kyle USA Linear Suspension Link with side plates for ZX-10R 2011-2012
Keeps the rising rate suspension more linear with a lower start rate.
Installing this link REQUIRES modifying
the internal valving on the Ohlins KA931 TTX MK II Shock at an
additional cost of $150. This does not include a new spring, but
anyone that purchased a shock from us we will exchange the spring
There are two different links to choose from:
The 5% Rising Rate Link is required at some tracks and for riders with gear weight in excess of 180lbs (SILVER LINK)
The .5% (notice that is a . in front of that) is for riders under 180lbs (BLACK LINK)
Designed By Suspension/Geometry Expert Jon Cornwell.
This fits The Kawasaki ZX10R 2011 and 2012
The Suspension link is made by Kyle Racing in our in house machine shop.
You will receive one link and two side plates. Our link is much longer than the stock link, see picture above, and the side plates are shorter.
The link has new bearing and dust seals installed, you will reuse the stock pin in the bearing. All bolts and torque setting are the same as stock, please refer to the ZX10R shop manual for specs.
Both the link and side plates are made from high strength 7075 aluminum and clear anodized.
The rear suspension link changes the rate of the "Rising Rate Suspension"
It makes it more Linear, this will give the rear tire more grip as well as a better ride quality if you are using the bike with no Passenger.
It also changes the "Start Rate" of the suspension. This means we use a light rate spring as Our Base spring .
An example is the Standard Recommended Ohlins spring for the Ohlins TTX shock is a 110 Nmm spring, with this link the new spring would be a 105 Nmm
In real terms this gets you more rear tire traction and a better quality ride.
Please contact us with any questions.
Test Report from Ken Hill
Kyle 2011-up ZX10 Shock Link Test
Having spent a great deal of time on a few different 2011-12 ZX10s and working over the stock suspension pieces, I was pretty happy with how the bike worked given its stock nature. For the most part, it handled everything I threw at it, although it took the stock shock to be re-valved to make that happen. The stock forks continued to work well and only at the very last 5% of trying to haul ass, did I feel like I needed something more out of them.
Then Ohlins called .Ken, can we use you and your ZX10s to test the new electronic shock back to back with the standard TTX? Why of course! I wont go into detail about the comparison, only to say that the Ohlins upgrade over the re-valved shock was pretty substantial. Not so much from a lap time perspective, but from a feel and comfort perspective. The bike worked really well over the bumps and was easier to ride.
So where does the link come in? Hang in there, Im getting to it .To be perfectly clear, I didnt have a major reason to think about a new link Heck, I liked the way the bike worked and grip was just fine thankyouverymuch ..I knew there were a few links out there for the 10R already and I had heard mixed results with them, but then a call from Dan Kyle saying why his link was different had me visiting his shop to get one. At Dans shop he explained how the stock link was set-up, how the other links worked and how his link was designed. I left the shop with a cool new link and a few springs to try out.
The goal for testing the link was to try and duplicate how the average guy would get it and set-it up. The shock used was an out of the box Ohlins KA931 non-elect TTX shock. Up until I wrote this, I rode on the Kyle link 4 times and Ill break done each time I rode it. The test bike was my 2011 ZX10 that is still pretty stock..It has the normal stuff of a Graves pipe, ECU-Unleashed flash, rear-sets , gearing and I run Dunlop tires .but thats it. Stock body work, brakes, forks, etc.
Baseline test-Buttonwillow Raceway:
For the baseline test, I installed the link on the bike with no other changes other than resetting dynamic ride height on the TTX shock. The shock had an 11.5kg spring set at 11mm of Preload with clickers at 12/12
My initial impression was that the bike felt soft in the rear The geometry was close, but even with Buttonwillows bumpy surface it was still way soft, mainly at the top of the stroke I added 1mm of spring preload and some compression and now we were getting somewhere. It was still a little soft, but grip and feel were excellent. I decided to raise the rear 3mm and that helped the bike in the higher speed loaded corners. I thought about adding more Preload, but I was already close to being tight on free sag, so I went with the ride height.
I loved the way the rear of the bike felt and the feel-confidence I had using the throttle was a blast. I could really get after it and not worry the bike was going to do something stupid. The issue I had was the rear getting low in the stroke of the shock on hard acceleration. We left Buttonwillow thinking the rear needed a stiffer spring.
Test 2 Back to Bumpywillow
After consulting with Dan, he explained that were actually on the stiff side of the envelope spring wise and we needed to look for a different path. When I removed the shock to check my end settings, the spring had 12mm of Preload on it and Dan felt the way the Kyle link was designed, it need much more preload on it to work properly. So we installed an 11.0 (yes, lighter) spring with 14mm of preload on it. We made no other changes. I was a bit apprehensive on whether this change would work and on my out lap at the first session, I knew this was the right way to go. The rear of the bike held its geometry much much better the feel/grip I liked so much was even better. Throughout the day, I messed around with the clickers a bit and tried even more preload and settled on 14.5mm of preload with the clickers at 11/13, still on the stock valved TTX shock. The bike worked really well and was a blast to ride. With a new rear tire I was in the 49s and low 50s and was shocked at how easy the lap times came.
Test 3-4 Thunderhill-Sonoma-Sears Point
I wish I had some good stuff to tell all of you here, but I dont. I left the bike as it rolled off the trailer from Buttonwillow and I didnt touch a thing with it. At Thunderhill, it worked great. At Sears, I did feel like the bike needed to compress the tires a bit more on braking and accelerating, so I took out a little preload front and rear (4 clicks front-1mm rear) and it worked great, even at some quicker lap times.
An interesting note was the back to back riding impression I did with my 2012 ZX10 that has a re-valved stock shock and stock link. Jumping from one to the other really showed the difference between the two bikes. The 12 stocker on acceleration felt low and confidence in knowing where the rear tire was and what is was doing, greatly diminished. The best way to describe it was when fellow YCRS instructor Shane Turpin rode them back to back and said the stocker felt like a street bike and the Kyle link bike felt like a race bike. The bottom line is you can put this link on your bike with an out of the box TTX shock and with the correct settings, have it work really well.
Whats next? Well try a cartridge kit for the forks and also see how the Ohlins electronic shock works with the link as well. Dan also wants to try some different shock valving to see if that works better.